Nestled above 2,400 meters in the Sierra de los Cuchumatanes, Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a Mam Maya village in Huehuetenango department. It is renowned for its inhabitants who still wear the traje traditional costume daily — red and white striped trousers for men, embroidered huipil for women — and for its November 1st horse race, one of Guatemala's most singular events.

Practical Information at a Glance

• Access: from Huehuetenango, collective buses or minibuses on a winding mountain road (approximately 2 to 3 hours depending on conditions).
• Altitude: approximately 2,480 meters — bring warm clothing, even during the dry season.
• Market: the main market is held on Saturday; a secondary market on Wednesday.
• Recommended stay: 1 to 2 nights to see the market and surrounding areas.
• Local language: Mam (Maya language) and Spanish.

What to See

The village centers around a central plaza bordered by a colonial church. Sloping streets reveal homes with colorful façades and women weaving on backstrap looms. The Saturday market draws vendors from nearby villages: textiles, mountain vegetables, medicinal herbs. Men in red and white striped trousers are ubiquitous—this costume is worn daily, not merely for tourists.

History and Context

Todos Santos is a bastion of Mam culture, one of Guatemala's oldest Maya groups. The community has resisted significant acculturation and maintains ritual practices linked to the 260-day Maya calendar (tzolkin). Shamans (ajq'ijab') still perform ceremonies at sacred sites on the village's outskirts. The Guatemalan Civil War (1960–1996) left profound marks on the region.

Highlights of Your Visit

The November 1st Horse Race

Each year for All Saints' Day, riders in traditional costume gallop back and forth on a track, drinking aguardiente at each pass. The race lasts all day and blends celebration, ritual, and competition. It is rural Guatemala's most photographed event—and one of the most intense to experience firsthand.

The Saturday Market

The weekly market showcases exchange between Cuchumatanes communities. Local textiles—particularly hand-embroidered huipiles—are of remarkable quality and sold directly by the artisans who made them.

Hiking to La Torre

La Torre peak, Guatemala's highest non-volcanic point (approximately 3,837 meters), is accessible from Todos Santos. The hike traverses pine forests and high-altitude páramo. Hire a local guide and start early morning.

Etiquette and Visiting Guidelines

• Always ask permission before photographing people—some residents firmly decline.
• During the November 1st race, stay clear of the track and respect areas reserved for locals.
• At the church, wear modest clothing and conduct yourself discreetly.
• Avoid filming Maya ceremonies without explicit consent.

Photography Tips

Morning light is ideal on the central plaza and at the market. Men's striped costumes stand out beautifully in diffuse natural light. For the November 1st race, position yourself on elevated ground along the track's sides for an unobstructed view. Avoid flash photography inside the church.

Location and Access

Todos Santos Cuchumatán sits in Huehuetenango department in northwestern Guatemala. The city of Huehuetenango is the natural jumping-off point. Collective minibuses link the two localities daily. The road is spectacular yet demanding—avoid driving at night. No nearby airport; access is exclusively by road.

Nearby Attractions

• Huehuetenango — the departure city with its market and nearby Zaculeu ruins.
• Zaculeu — a restored Mam archaeological site, a few kilometers from Huehuetenango.
• Nebaj — another Ixil village in the highlands, departure point for hikes in the Ixil triangle.