Traveling to the Petén department, in northern Guatemala, means immersing yourself in the heart of Mayan civilization. Isla de Flores, its capital, attracts many tourists because of its proximity to this region's historical sites. Located on a small island in Lake Petén Itzá, it sits close to the ancient Mayan city of Tikal, the mysterious "Cueva de la Serpiente" caves, and the ruins of the great city of Tayasal.

A short boat ride on the lake allows you to discover the surrounding fauna and flora. Set on an islet, the Petencito Zoo houses numerous specimens threatened by poaching. The night safari of the Ixpanpajul Natural Park reveals countless animal species in their natural habitat. And the "Mirador del Rey Canek" viewpoint offers a panoramic view over the entire region.

History

Before Colonization

Numerous Mayan peoples lived successively on Flores Island before the arrival of the first Spanish. The last to settle there were the Itzáes, the shamans of the waters. They built the beautiful city of Nojpetén during the 13th century. The city's boundaries extended to the northern shore of Lake Petén.

They constructed more than 200 thatched-roof huts, palaces, and approximately twenty-two sacred spaces. They reinforced the island's defenses by erecting a barrier along its shores. A nine-meter-high stepped pyramid was raised in the center of the city. The Itzáes arranged a circular platform on its summit and placed several statues representing their gods.

The Colonial Period

The Spanish attempted to conquer the region during the 16th century. But they encountered fierce resistance from the Mayas. Ignorant of the city's name built in the middle of the lake, they named it Tayasal. Conquistador Hernán Cortés tried to take the city in 1541, without success.

The city held its ground for more than 150 years. Despite the war against the foreigners, the Itzáes allowed Spanish priests to visit their city, in 1618 and then in 1696.

In 1697, conquistador Martín de Ursúa y Arismendi resolved to bring down the last Mayan city on the continent. He arrived near Nojpetén with 235 soldiers and 120 indigenous warriors. He had a rowing ship transported through the forest, launched it into the water, and bombarded the city with cannon fire. The city fell on Wednesday, March 13, 1697. Many Itzáes were killed in the attack; survivors fled into the forest.

Upon entering the city, the Spanish discovered a well-structured settlement laid out in grids with the great pyramid at its center. They destroyed its dwellings, broke the statues of Mayan deities, and dismantled the main temple. They then used its stones to build a church. They founded a city on the foundations of Nojpetén and named it "Nuestra Señora de los Remedios y San Pablo, Laguna del Itza". The name was often shortened to "Remedios", "Petén", or "El Presidio" in official documents.

After the country's independence, the city was renamed Flores, in honor of president Cirilo Flores Estrada.

Flores Today

Flores is located on an island in the middle of Lake Petén Itzá. It is connected to the town of Santa Elena by a long strip of land. The urban architecture of Isla Flores blends an old colonial town with a modern one. The streets are narrow and paved. The houses feature basic colonial architecture, but most have been renovated by their owners, losing some of their charm in the process.

The locality is quite small. You can walk through it in any direction on foot. Its streets are quiet and the climate is temperate, ideal for swimming. A garden has been laid out on its main square, the "Parque Central". One of Flores' oldest structures still stands there, the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios y San Pablo de los Itzá. This colonial-style church was built with stones from a great Mayan pyramid centuries ago.

As you stroll along the shores of the lake, you notice several boats shuttling back and forth between the city and surrounding villages.

Petencito Zoo

The Petencito zoological park has been set up on a nearby island. You reach it by boat. The jaguars, monkeys, and birds at the center have mostly escaped poaching. They were rescued by ARCAS, an organization dedicated to environmental protection and animal rights. Macaws, parrots, toucans, spider monkeys, ocelots, pumas, and many other species now live safely there since their rescue.

Museo Santa Bárbara

You can discover the Santa Bárbara Museum on another islet in the lake. It houses many relics from the ancient civilizations that lived on Flores Island.

Carretera San Miguel

To get a small sense of the ancient city of Nojpetén, you should visit the town of Carretera San Miguel located just across from Flores. Near this locality, the Tayasal archaeological site contains the remains of three Mayan pyramids, foundations of ancient dwellings, and several mysterious pillars, all nestled amid lush vegetation.

The "Mirador del Rey Canek" viewpoint sits a few hundred meters from the Tayasal site, about a twenty-minute walk away. Climbing to the top of its famous lookout is striking. From there, you can enjoy a panoramic view over Lake Petén Itzá and Isla de Flores.

Playa de Chechena

After a boat ride, a visit to the Tayasal archaeological site, and a stop at Playa de Chechena beach, a break becomes essential. A picnic area has been set up near its shores so you can rest.

The Cuevas de Actún Kan

Back in Flores, you'll also hear about another iconic site nearby, the Actún Kan caverns. They are located a few kilometers south of the town of Santa Elena. Beyond the beauty of its stalagmites and stalactites, the Mayan civilization left many artifacts in these excavations.

Ixpanpajul Natural Park

The Petén department is also a paradise for nature lovers. If you enjoy hiking, zip-lining, or exploring the forest during a night safari, the Ixpanpajul Natural Park is for you. This large nature reserve is probably the epicenter of ecotourism in the region. It sits about ten kilometers south of Santa Elena.

Tikal

The Tikal National Park is located approximately 65 kilometers from Flores. Inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage list, it is one of Guatemala's most famous sites. This ancient city was among the most powerful Mayan kingdoms of its time. Its monumental pyramids, impressive structures, legends, museum, and countless archaeological sites are renowned worldwide. Enthusiasts of Mesoamerican lore will find answers to many questions about how the Mayas lived.

Climate

In Flores, temperatures range between 18°C and 32°C throughout the year, with an average of 15°C. A tropical savanna climate prevails in the city and its surroundings. Showers fall on the island between May and November. But they ease considerably between February and April.

By Air

The town of Santa Elena, south of Flores, is served by the Mundo Maya international airport. It receives flights from around the world as well as from Ciudad de Guatemala, the country's capital.

By Road

Regional buses connect Flores to Ciudad de Guatemala or Ciudad de Belice. The journey takes about ten hours from the capital. Some private companies like Autobuses del Norte, Linea Dorada, or Fuente del Norte offer drop-off at the Fuente del Norte bus station in Santa Elena for 120 to 200 quetzals per person.

You can explore Flores or its surroundings by bus, taxi, or tuk-tuk. Fares vary depending on your destination. Expect at least 20 quetzals for a taxi and 5 quetzals per person for a tuk-tuk.

If you wish to reach Tikal, go to the Santa Elena bus station. There, regional buses offer direct service to the park entrance. Some can drop you in the town of El Remate. From there, other buses depart for Tikal starting at 6 a.m. Remember that the park closes around 4 p.m.

For boat rides on Lake Petén Itzá, head to the northeast of Flores or to the southwestern part of the city. There, a few boats can take you for 5 to 10 quetzals per person. Some even offer afternoon rentals for 100 quetzals.