Chichicastenango is one of the great epicenters of Maya culture in Guatemala. This small town nestled in the heart of the Quiché department, at the center of the country, has preserved ancient Amerindian rites by blending Catholicism with ancestral religion.

Its "Plaza Baktun" houses a series of statues where locals pay homage to ancient gods. Meanwhile, every Sunday, Christian processions are organized around the "Iglesia Santo Tomas".

Visiting Chichicastenango amounts to immersing yourself in Guatemala's ancestral culture. Traditional art takes center stage at the "Plaza de Chichicastenango" market, the town's main attraction.

Maya culture is also present in the principal museums. The "Museo De Mascaras" houses a collection of ceremonial masks. And its "Museo Regional" displays magnificent Maya statues.

History

Before colonization

Long before the arrival of the first Spanish, the entire region was part of the Kingdom of Quiché. This great tribe dominated all other Maya clans.

One of their vassals, the Cakchiquels, erected the city of Chaviar. This city was located at the site of present-day Chichicastenango. These Maya built several thatched-roof huts, limestone buildings to honor the gods, dwellings for their shamans and lords. A small river flowed through the center of town. Legend tells of a gigantic feathered serpent that made its home there and devoured anyone who ventured into its domain.

Between 1425 and 1475, the Cakchiquel lords rebelled against the Quiché king Quikab. The bloody war between the two peoples led to the independence of the Cakchiquels. They departed south and built the great city of Iximche. Members of the Quiché tribe then settled in Chaviar.

The colonial period

Led by conquistador Pedro de Alvarado, the Spanish invaded the region during the sixteenth century. After conquering the south of the country, they reached the gates of the Quiché kingdom with 135 cavalrymen, 120 soldiers accompanied by 400 Aztec and Cakchiquel warriors. The Maya territory fell in 1524. Many Amerindians were massacred by the army, the principal chiefs were burned alive, and survivors were enslaved.

Chaviar also fell into the hands of the invaders. The Aztecs and Spanish renamed it Tzitzicastenango. A few colonial buildings were erected there and a church was built in 1540, the Iglesia de Santo Tomas.

Priests settled in the town. They preached the Gospel to the Maya, taught them Spanish, instructed them in commerce and took them into their service. The small country town was gradually expanded over time to become the present-day municipality of Chichicastenango.

Chichicastenango today

Traveling from the town of Antigua to Chichicastenango allows you to discover the landscape of the Guatemalan countryside. Trees line the road. On the horizon, verdant hills seem to remain unchanged.

The urban landscape of Chichicastenango

At the town's entrance, you discover a few isolated, modern buildings. Houses of different sizes and varying shapes line its narrow streets. Most of the town's streets are paved.

There are very few colonial structures compared to Antigua. Cars and tuk-tuks sometimes advance with difficulty as crowds flood the town's streets. Thursday is market day in Chichicastenango.

The traditional market of Chichicastenango

The "Mercado de Chichicastenango" is packed with people on Thursdays and Sundays. Located in the heart of town, this gigantic open-air market brings together all the region's products. Flowers, clothing, shoes, fruits, vegetables—you'll find a bit of everything.

Some souvenir merchants gather along an alleyway. They sell ponchos, tunics, bags and embroidered pieces in vibrant colors. Their quality varies from stall to stall, as do their prices.

The Iglesia de Santo Tomas

Still absorbed by the market's wares, you suddenly find yourself before the Church of Santo Tomas. The 18 steps leading to the religious building are crowded with flower and incense vendors. Every Sunday, a long procession emerges from the colonial-style structure to circle the neighborhood. Inside, the large wooden altarpiece, the timber framing and the pews transport you to the heart of the sixteenth century.

At the other end of the street, another structure also catches the eye, though it's difficult to contemplate it because of the crowds. This is the small Capilla del Calvario chapel. A few meters away, the Museo Regional of Chichicastenango houses a small collection of sculptures and pottery from Maya culture.

The Arco de Gukumatz

"The Serpent's Arc" is one of the emblematic sites of Chichicastenango. Legend tells that in the time of the ancient Maya, a river ran through the town. This small watercourse was the territory of a gigantic feathered serpent. To preserve this myth, Guatemalan architect Aniceto de León created this work adorned with a great reptile. The Arco de Gukumatz dates from 1932.

The Plaza Baktun

Heading toward the west side of Chichicastenango, accompanied by a good guide, you discover a dirt path crossing the Cementerio, the town's cemetery. The tombs resemble miniature churches painted pink, light blue, or white.

Leaving this part of town, you reach a strange clearing, the Plaza Baktun. Mysterious columns and stone statues have been erected in this vast space.

Ancestral rituals continue to be celebrated here. The Amerindians of Chichicastenango believe that the cosmos greatly influences human existence. They continue to perpetuate ancestral rites while practicing Catholicism.

The Cerro Pascual Abaj

You can observe the same type of syncretism on the hill of Pascual Abaj. In the heart of the greenery, a space has been specially prepared for Amerindians to make offerings: "La Moreria". There, you enjoy a beautiful view of Chichicastenango. A few steps away, the Museo De Mascaras houses a small collection of Maya ceremonial masks.

Climate

Chichicastenango enjoys a temperate climate. There, temperatures range between 8°C and 24°C almost year-round. The dry season extends from December to March.

You can travel from Antigua to Chichicastenango in three hours. Simply take a bus from the town's bus station or book with a private transport company. Most of them depart each Thursday or Sunday starting at 7am. The journey costs between 150 to 200 quetzals.

Chichicastenango is a small town. You can visit most of its attractions on foot. To make the most of Maya culture, it's best to be accompanied by a local guide. To reach more distant sites, simply take a tuk-tuk.